High temperatures, bright light, low humidity and fast air movement will, singly or in combination, increase and orchid's needs for water. Keep an eye on the plant's growing condition to learn how frequently you need to water them. Most plants need to be watered about once a week in the winter or twice or more in the summer.

Water the plant thoroughly. If possible, take the plant to a sink or bathtub and pour plenty of water through the potting medium. Tis will flush any accumulated slats out of the pot and will provide the even moisture that encourages large, heatlhy root systems. Use room temperature water if possible. Cold water shocks plant roots and can damage the leaves or orchids such as phalaenopsis.

When watering an orchid it is vital that water is applied over the entire exposed surface area, not in one spot alone. This is because of the relative coarseness of the media used to grow orchids and the fact that they do not "wick" water throughout the pot like regular houseplant potting soils that contain peat moss and other humus. As a potting medium ages, the air spaces in it shrink, making it retain more water. Thus, newly repotted plants need to be watered more often than those that have been in the same growing medium for awhile.

Unless you're trying to save a sick or damaged orchid, wait to repot until after flowering - the time that most orchids begin a cycle of root growth. Orchids re-potted at this stage are quick to re-establish themselves. Repot when new roots first appear; once the roots have grown more than 1/2 inch, they are easily broken during transplanting. If damaged, young orchid roots won't grow again until the next year.

• Step (1): Water the orchid; a thorough watering makes the roots easier to handle;



• Step (2): Take the plant out of the pot removing all the growing medium. If you don't remove all the mix from the roots, it will continue to decay and could eventually lead to root rot;



• Step (3): Clean the roots. Cut off any rotten roots. Leave the healthy roots intact;



• Step (4): Pot the plant. Position the plant in the center. Fill in bark around the roots, firmly tamping it in with your fingers or a dowel. After each handful, thump the bottom of the pot against the table to settle the bark;



• Step (5): Support top-heavy orchids, such as cattleyeas with a stake to keep them from toppling;



• Step (6): Place a plastic bag over a newly potted plant to help maintain humidity. To allow some air flow, don't close the bag completely and cut a few holes in the plastic on all sides of the plant



• Step (7): Move the plant to a shadier location. Withhold water or water sparingly for 1 to 2 weeks. Daily misting will help. Water the plant less than usual for the next 2 months to stimulate root growth. Slightly fertilize while watering. After 4 to 6 weeks, move the orchid back into brighter light.

All Brassia are easy to grow and flower in medium light on any windowsill except northern ones, and in greenhouses under medium light, in intermediate to warm temperatures(55 to 65F winter nights). Grow them in baskets or pots, the roots will often climb out of the mix, which is normal. Add humidity with misting and humidity trays. Fertilize regularly while they are growing, which helps encourage twice-a-year bloom. Give the plant a 2 to 4 week rest with higher light after growth is complete. Brassia don't like to be repotted often.

Catteleya are among the easiest and showiest of all orchids to grow. Intermediate to warm temperatures (55-65 F winter nights), in medium bright light of southern, eastern or western windowsills. Blooms are most abundant in the higher light range. Leaf margins will often develop a reddish tinge that lets you know they are at the upper limit of light. Let them dry out a bit between waterings and fertilize regularly while in active growth. Reduce both somewhat for a short rest whn the pseudo-bulbs mature; during this time, they will appreciate misting more than they will water.

Odontoglossums should not be allowed to dry out completely between waterings. Repot only when necessary to replace the growing medium; they do not grow well if their roots are frequently disturbed. These plants need cool to intermediate night temperatures but don't do well if the the days are warmer than 70F for long periods.

Generally easy to grow, adapting well to intermediate temperatures and tolerating missed watering without damage. They get along well outdoors in the summer, benefitting from rain or showering with a hose. Bring them inside before temperatures drop below 50 degrees.

Phalaenopsis are beter house and greenhouse plants planted in temperate climates. Phalaenopsis and its hybrids do well in the same conditions that produce African Violets. They adapt to bright window light or fluorescent light and consistently warm temperatures. A slight cooling at night in the fall (55 F) encourages 'spiking' in some. Water consistently and fertilize weekly and "weakly"!

When watering paphiopedilums, avoid splashing water into the growing points and leaf axils. If water collects and remains in these places for a long time, bacterial rot can kill the growing points and young leaves. Species and hybrids with green leaves need cool night temps, especially in the fall when the flower buds set.

Miltonias sunburn easily. If the plants are getting enough light, the leaves will be light green. A slight tinge of pink indicates that the plants are receiving as much light as they will tolerate. To avoid sunburn, shade the plants or move them away from windows druing especially hot spells.

Most Dendrobiums want high light on southern windowsills and intermediate temperatures (55-60 F nights). Give them small pots of well-drained mix. Let them dry out somewhat between waterings. Good air movement is a boon, as is humidity of 50 to 70%. Grow over pebble trays and group plants together. They are heavy feeders; fertilized regularly only while in growth. If your dendrobium doesn't bloom, the most likely cause is insufficient light; the strongest clue will be weak, thin stems.

Most Cymbidium are easy to grow if they have cool nights and high light. All need a decided drop in nighttime temperatures for at least 6 weeks, generally in late summer and fall, in order to induce buds, and it's best if this drop can be maintained throughout winter as well. Cymbidium can also be grown outdoors as landscape plants in well-drained humus-like garden soil. Give them even moisture and heavy regular fertilizer. Most will bloom from February to April. For best floral display, stake the erect inflorescence when it is 4 inches tall, then again at 8-inches, but first put the plant in a warm spot for several hours to make the inflorescence less brittle.

Grammatophylum will tolerate considerable summer heat as long as they get cool, mild night temperatures(55-65F). Cold weather, even down to 28F for a few hours each night will not damage an acclimatized plant. Once the plant spikes or flowers, it should be protected from temperatures below 35F. The plant enjoys morning and afternoon sun most, yet should be protected from the hot mid-day sun They should not be allowed to go dry, yet they don't care for a soggy environment either. Watering once every 7 to 10 days is about right. Feed regularly and repot every 2 to 3 years.

Grow in small pots of medium-fine mix in intermediate to cool temps (45-58F winter nights), avoiding daytime heat over 78F. Medium light on a humid eastern windowsill or in a greenhouse is best. Water the plants well year-round. If your windowsill plant grows slowly, grow it more on the cool side and raise the humidity; it may need a greenhouse.